By Laura Goodson
With the feminine freshness and elegance of Chicca Lualdi still fresh in our minds, the Nicholas K show packed a masculine punch.
This show capitalised on a fashion trend that has already been embraced by Highstreet Fashion Stores, & Other stories and Zara and worn regularly on celebrities such as Alexa Chung and Cara Delevingne.
By definition, Normcore rejects fashion; the challenge of this philosophy is to find fashion in anti-fashion. It’s for people that can take something perfectly unimportant and ordinary and still look good, as New York Magazine wrote; ‘it’s fashion for those that know they’re one in seven billion.’
How to find a perfect Normcore muse?
The design team behind the collection Nicholas and Kristopher Kunz were inspired by 19th century Swiss explorer, Isabelle Eberhart for inspiration who, at a young age left her homeland to explore the terrains of North Africa.
The collection is defined by the notion of masculine dressing permitting freedom, during her time as a traveller Isabelle dressed as a man, allowing her to travel with a man’s liberty; a world away from the constraints of womanhood at her time.
During her lifetime she committed herself to fighting colonialism and the plight of the poor, her daily life eclipsed the frippery of fashion; she engaged herself in charitable causes. In this respect Isabelle was and is the ultimate Normcore Muse.
The first look to be revealed on the catwalk was a heavy leather ensemble, hyper-masculine thick leather with strong tassel detailing. The use of natural materials re-emerged later in the show with the use of horsehair to create a tribal, earthy aesthetic.
Accents of Africa defined the styling of the collection. Models’ hair was swathed in heavy strips of leather and eyes deeply kohled, while the colour palette reflected the kaleidoscopic colours of the desert.
The hazy beige of sand dunes manifested themselves on draped linen dresses and headscarves, while the penultimate a look, a glistening topaz robe was inspired by the mysterious colours of the North African sunset.
If the masculinity was in some respects a touch frightening and far away from the ‘ideals’ of fashion, it was testament to Isabelle’s’ curious and brave spirit, her desire to fight poverty and injustice meant she often found herself miles away from her comfort zone.
Nicholas K’s final world?
Resist the temptation to follow fashion’s mores, embrace the beauty of normality and let your extraordinary soul define you.
Reckon you’re the ‘one in seven billion,’ that can rock anti-fashion? For the, 6. 999 999 billion, here’s the show’s Trend snippet-
Normcore ‘trends’ to watch this season: Models wore Jublo Vermont sunglasses; the eyewear choice of adventurers and a serious ‘ahead of the curve’ trend to watch this Autumn/Winter.
Photos: Lucilla Manino.
Words: Laura Goodson
By Laura Goodson